Filament Choice for Beginners (PLA vs PETG vs ABS)

Filament Choice for Beginners (PLA vs PETG vs ABS)

The Big Three: A Quick Overview

PLA PETG ABS
Difficulty Beginner Intermediate Advanced
Print temp 190-220 °C 230–250 °C 230–250 °C
Heated bed Optional (60 °C) Recommended (70–80 °C) Required (100–110 °C)
Enclosure No No Strongly recommended
Heat resistance Low (~60 °C) Medium (~80 °C) High (~100 °C)
Warping Minimal Low High
Price ~€20–25/kg ~€22–28/kg ~€20–25/kg

PLA — The Beginner's Best Friend

PLA (Polylactic Acid) is made from plant starch, which makes it biodegradable and easy to work with. It prints at lower temperatures, doesn't warp much, and doesn't require a heated bed or an enclosure. It's the most forgiving filament you can buy.

Print it for: decorative objects, prototypes, hobby models, anything that stays indoors and won't get hot.

Avoid it for: parts that live in a hot car, outdoors in the sun, or under mechanical stress — PLA softens around 60 °C, which is enough to warp a dashboard phone holder on a sunny day.

Bottom line: PLA is the right choice for your first roll, your first month, and honestly for the majority of prints most hobbyists ever make.

Where to buy: Prusament PLA is a reliable premium choice. On a budget, Alza has PLA filaments from under €10 per roll — a great way to experiment without spending much.


PETG — The Practical Upgrade

PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol) is what you reach for when PLA isn't tough enough. It's significantly stronger, more flexible, and has better heat resistance. It's also food-safe when printed correctly, making it popular for kitchen accessories.

The trade-off is that PETG absorbs moisture from the air faster than PLA. A damp spool will string like crazy and produce brittle layers. If you're printing PETG, store it in a sealed bag with silica gel between sessions — or invest in a filament dryer.

Print it for: functional parts, brackets, boxes, anything that needs to survive some abuse or heat.

Avoid it when: you want maximum detail or minimal stringing on decorative prints — PETG tends to string more than PLA even when dialled in.

Bottom line: PETG is the natural "second filament" once you've got your printer dialled in with PLA. Don't jump straight to it as a beginner.

Where to buy: Prusament PETG is consistently well-reviewed for quality and consistency.


ABS — Powerful but Punishing

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is what LEGO bricks are made from. It's strong, heat-resistant, and machinable (you can sand, drill, and acetone-smooth it). It's also one of the most frustrating materials to print without the right setup.

ABS warps aggressively. Without an enclosure to keep the ambient temperature stable, the corners of your print will peel off the bed mid-print. It also releases fumes (styrene) that you really don't want to breathe, so ventilation is essential.

Print it for: engineering-grade parts, things that need high heat resistance, parts you want to post-process with acetone for a smooth finish.

Avoid it if: you don't have an enclosure, you print in a small room, or you're still learning — the failure rate for beginners is high and the frustration is real.

Bottom line: Skip ABS until you're comfortable with your printer and can print in a ventilated, enclosed setup. Most of what people use ABS for can be handled by ASA (a better-smelling, UV-resistant alternative).

Where to buy: Prusament ASA/ABS.


Honourable Mentions

A few other materials worth knowing about once you're past the basics:

  • ASA — like ABS but UV-resistant and slightly less temperamental. Great for outdoor prints.
  • TPU — flexible and rubbery. Excellent for phone cases, gaskets, cable protectors. Slow to print and tricky with Bowden extruders.
  • PA (Nylon) — extremely strong and durable, but absorbs moisture rapidly. Needs a dry environment and an enclosure.

How to Store Your Filament

All filaments absorb moisture over time, which causes popping sounds during printing, stringing, and weak layer adhesion. Here's how to prevent it:

  • Between prints: Store spools in zip-lock bags or sealed containers with silica gel packets.
  • For active spools: A simple dry box (a plastic storage bin with silica gel and a hole for the filament to feed through) works well.
  • Reviving wet filament: A filament dryer (or a food dehydrator set to ~45–55 °C for 4–6 hours) will restore most damp spools.

PETG and nylon are the worst offenders. PLA is relatively forgiving, but still benefits from dry storage.


Don't Have a Printer Yet?

If you need a specific part printed in a particular material — PETG for a functional bracket, flexible TPU for a custom grip — you don't have to buy a whole printer to get it. Our print service lets you upload your model and choose your material, and we'll handle the rest.